vrijdag 31 augustus 2012

A Special Book...Recycling in Times of Crisis.....

Because this is the last day of the almost never ending holiday....it seems..
There is still time now to write blogposts....which I really like to do as you have noticed this last month...

The coming weeks will be busy and often hectic when work starts again..
Preparing lessons..meetings etc...
And when things come inbetween as the stair-elevator which will be placed next week..
So...
Here is another story of a remarkable book I bought some weeks ago at the Antiquariat from Jos Wijnhoven...


Nieuw.... van Oud.....
New....from Old
by Th. Staalenhoef.
From: Moeder-Bibliotheek
Publisher: Gebr. Zomer & Keuning, Wageningen


A very trendy topic nowadays...
With Crisis all around us..

But this book is different...
Probably written in the Crisis between the 2 Word Wars...or maybe within the 2nd One..

It is not a sewingcourse, but inside are ideas how to make garments for the whole family out of used garments...
Very practical..and it did save money...
Some examples....

A mens windbreaker out of a Raincoat...
A Children pajamas from a Men's shirt....
A pinafore...from the skirt of a dress...
A practical and charming apron from an old summerdress...

A new coat for a  school-miss made out of a coat from her elderly sister...
A stylish suit made of the suit from the husband...
But..that was all very interesting to read ofcourse...


Untill I found a little note in the book..

A little poem, which is made when you give someone a gift at the Sinterklaas celebration on the 5th of December.
Someone..perhaps the husband or mother...must have written this.
And it was kept inside the book all those years..
Very touching I think...


Google translate comes with this..
I hope you feel the message..

Clothes make the man
But men are now annotated clothes
Therefore, we must turn everyting inside out
How to do is always the question
To make something for your little brat
Does not really take
Come be satified
Let this sad time you cold
And make new from old

Antique Textiles...

Our Dear Friend Janneke has a little antique textile collection inherited from her family who originally came from Groningen (the province we stayed this summer).
This week she did unpack an old trunk to give all the garments some fresh air..and to check the condition.
She phoned me up and invited me to have a look at it. She know I am always interested in everything textile related...
On the table and on Clothes Horses was a big selection of linen vests.
Spread out they would look like this:


For Men.

For Women.
They used to be worn under the daily garments. They are long, which has to do with the fact that underpants were not invented at that time, so the underside was slipped between the legs to form a kind of...pants.

They are made of linen and one could see differences in structure..
I am always intrigued in those kind of garments (many have been saved in textilecollections), because they are worn by a person.
Who this person is can be figuered out by the monograms embroided on the front.
Sometimes embroided in silk and always with the date under it.

This one has been worn by Mr. Eye Roelfs who lived between 1738 -1790 and came from a tiny placed named Zuurdijk.. 
He must have been a wealthy men, because only the rich could afford those kind of garments..





Some of them are hardly visible anymore.... and have another monograms embroided on them..



 It is always the attention for detail which touches me...
All handmade..stitch by stitch..no machines available..


The Embroidery with the same thread..
The handmade seams...
The so called...Spider..
The pleating.. 
The handmade buttons...
The buttonholes...  
The feeling that all have been worn..

donderdag 30 augustus 2012

La Mode Illustrée... and Knitting Vintage Socks...

Years ago I got a big pile of an old French Fashion Magazine (or maybe similar to Life-Style Magazine nowadays) .
Not all in very goods condition..but they all come from the 19th Century.
The name of the magazine is:



And this one is from the 25th of february 1866.

La Mode Illustrée was first published in 1859 in Paris and of course was in French.   La Mode Illustrée was one of the most important French magazines of the late C19th that carried on well into the twentieth century. 


La Mode Illustrée was published weekly on Sundays, with illustrations and description of Victorian fashions and the latest must have accessories.  There was always a fashion plate.  La Mode Illustrée set the standards for a circulation of 20,000 fashion conscious stylish women.  
It showed the ladies of that time the latest:

Fashion....

How your house should look like..

How your little girl should look like...


And how your little boy should look like...



Tunes to be played on the piano...


A weekly story...about Singles living in a Manorhouse...
Don't think it is something like Sex and the City...


How to sew by hand....


How your husband should look and behave...Yes..a Man had to wear a Moustache...
(Strangely enough I found only one image from a man in my collection....)


Because I am a Knitter..
I searched for knittingpatterns...
But...strangely enough..
Hardly anything could be found....
Loads of crochet....
Loads of embroidery....

Knitting probably was not so "En Vogue" with the French ladies of that Era.
Perhaps it was not frivolous enough for their Victorian household and taste....
Or it might have been more used for items as socks..by the not so wealthy ladies...

Maybe it has to do with the French tradition, because in England beautiful lace shawls can be found from the same time..

I am not a big fan of that Victorian Era..
It is too much frills and layers for me... 
The strict rules how to look and behave...
The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam once had a beautiful exhibition about that time with the Title: "The Ugly Era"
That all sums it up for me..

I am more a fan of the 18th Century..with the the garments made out of chintz with all those lovely patterns...

But on the other hand : during that era many inventions were made as the sewingmachine and the knittingmachine..and many more we still use today..

Still...I found a few images about knitting.....





And an interesting way to make a rope...looks like a variation on I-cord to me...


From that same time are the patterns which can be found in my favourite book on Sock knitting...

It was the first book I bought on this topic at the Stitch & Bitch event in Rotterdam.
The patterns are based on old patterns from Weldon's Practical Needlework series. 
A monthly magazine that came out in England starting in 1886 till the 1920's.
The Weldon's magazine are now published by Interweave Press..and here is an Example..

The book tells the story behind Weldon's and 20 different sock patterns can be found inside.
Nancy Bush is in my opinion one of the best writers...on Socks and on Estonian Knitting...

I made a few over the last years...
As...
The Gentleman's Fancy Sock.... (eaten by Moths unfortunately...)



The Little Child's Sock....for a Grown Up Man...


 The Gentleman's Plain Winter Sock..


So...one can say...
The Victorians has brought a lot to us....despite it is not my taste...


woensdag 29 augustus 2012

My 1950's Knitting Magazines...

A few weeks ago -while on Facebook- I checked the Men who Knit group. 
Daniel MacBride from Perth (a Spindle maker with his own firm named: Whorled Domination) offered some of his old patternbooks with patterns for Men.
I was lucky to get one from Patons.
They show typical 1950's garments for Men.
For Work, or maybe when coming home:




 For Sport: This one is for Skiing...



Complete with chart ofcourse...



 And this one....My favourite in Fair isle technique. I could see myself wearing this one, because I have something similar....



I think at that time the influence for Men fashion came by one of the great fashion icons of that era: The HRH Prince of Wales. As can be seen on this painting by John St. Heller Lander. The painting is made earlier, but this man made Fair Isle garments really fashionable.

What is interesting of those kind of magazines is that all patterns have a name from a person.
In this magazine they are named: Hugh, Clive, Ace, Desmond (with or without sleeves)....
There is even a Riverside and Ski-High..and..


I really haven't a clue why this is named "Vagabond"..because he doesn't look like he is a Vagabond...does he???....And neither does the sweater...

When checking my Dutch knittingmagazines from that time I also discovered that most of the patterns also had names related to persons..


So Inside : Margriet Breit (Margriet was, and is a very popular Women's magazine): a special magazine on knitting.. 95 cents at that time...

The slipover pattern for boys with my name Jan can be found..


And those for Men... 

A sweet little coat to wear in bed..or outside.. named Elis



 This one named "Hinde" with embroided deer on it...could be worn today I am sure...



And for the little boys.. Hansje and Frans..to suits with short trousers...\I do hope that the yarn used wasn't itchy..



I have some more..This one from Libelle (also a weekly magazine for Women..still going strong) about Crochet and Knitting from February 1951..

With this hat made from Angora yarn..

And inside the Libelle from 13 October 1950..



Next to articles about the latest fashion, recipes, an article about a Dutch women living in Caïro... this pattern for a shawl for an elderly woman can be founnd..



I think it is interesting what those magazines show us today..

The ability for women to knit a fashionable garment for either themselves or the family.

Usually necessary because it was cheaper to knit than to buy. (yes, times have changed..) 
But they also must have felt good when knitting and finishing the garment and trying it on for the first time.
The reactions from family or friends when they did wear it to church, work, or a party... 
The Oooh's and Aahh's..

And..You look Wonderfull..and Did you knit it yourself??

The last sentence is still working today...most of the time...